Different types of leather and how to tell them apart

Leather is often marketed as a premium material, but not all leather is made the same. Two products can both be labelled “leather” while having very different levels of quality, durability and price.

The difference often comes down to which part of the hide is used and how much of the original grain has been altered. Understanding these differences can help you make a better choice when buying shoes, bags, belts, wallets, jackets or furniture.

Full-grain leather is generally considered the highest-quality type of leather. It uses the outermost layer of the hide, with the natural grain largely left intact.

Because the surface hasn't been heavily sanded or corrected, you can often see natural markings such as small scars, pores and variations in texture. These are signs that the material hasn't been extensively altered.

Full-grain leather is also known for developing a patina, a richer appearance that develops as the material ages and is used.

Look for a natural, slightly uneven surface rather than a perfectly uniform texture. Natural markings and variations may be visible.

Top-grain leather also comes from the upper part of the hide, but its surface is usually sanded or corrected to remove imperfections.

This gives it a smoother and more consistent appearance than full-grain leather. It is still considered good-quality leather and is commonly used in handbags, shoes, wallets and furniture.

Top-grain leather usually has a smooth, consistent finish. Natural imperfections are less visible, and the surface tends to feel more uniform.

“Genuine leather” can be misleading. It simply means the product is made from real leather. It does not mean the material is the highest quality.

The term can refer to leather made from lower layers of the hide or leather that has undergone significant processing and finishing.

Don't assume a product is premium simply because the label says “genuine leather”. Check the manufacturer's description for details about the leather grade and construction.

Split leather is made from the lower layers of a hide after the upper grain layer has been separated.

Because it doesn't have the same natural grain structure as the outer surface, split leather is often treated, coated or embossed to give it a particular appearance.

Suede is one familiar example of material made from the split side of a hide.

Split leather can have a softer, more fibrous texture. On finished products, it can be difficult to identify because coatings and embossing can make it resemble other types of leather.

Bonded leather is made by combining leather fibres and scraps with binding materials and forming them into a sheet.

It can be made to look similar to genuine leather and is often used for furniture and lower-cost accessories.

Its main drawback is durability. The surface can crack, peel or wear away more quickly than higher-quality leather.

Bonded leather often has a very consistent, artificial-looking grain pattern. Check areas that receive a lot of use, such as seats, handles and edges. Peeling can expose a fabric-like layer underneath.

The easiest way to understand the difference is to consider how much of the original hide has been preserved.

Full-grain: Natural grain largely intact and generally the most durable.

Top-grain: Upper layer retained but surface corrected for a smoother finish.

Genuine leather: Real leather, but the term doesn't specify a particular grade.

Split leather: Lower layer of the hide, often treated or coated.

Bonded leather: Leather fibres and scraps combined with binding materials.

Don't judge leather by appearance alone

One common mistake is assuming the smoothest or most expensive-looking leather is automatically the best.

Manufacturers can use coatings, embossing and other finishes to make lower-grade materials resemble higher-quality leather.